The first of the three Dark Horse comps is complete. The promised show was delivered to Metro-north, also known as Newburyport. Similar format as usual: 4 hours of redpoint competition, followed by Nationals-style finals for top 6 men and women. Except, there were 5 problems to be climbed! Here are the results for the open categories:
1. Vasya Vorotnikov (me)
2. Max Zolotukhin
3. Andy Lamb
4. Rob D’Anastasio
5. Nick Picarella
1. Francesca Metcalf
2. Melissa Godowski
3. Sydney McNair
4. Amelia Metcalf
5. Zoe Leivovitch
Unlike just a week ago, when I was able to finish the necessary 5 problems to make it to finals in just 1.5 hours, this comp felt like a major test of endurance. Falling off multiple times on all of my top 5 climbs and 3 hours later, my skin and muscles were ready for a 2-day break. Instead, we got just a few hours before the start of the finals.
With oh-so-needed 2 cups of coffee that Neil Mushaweh prepared especially for me (and Lauren), I went into the finals. Feeling good after flashing the first 2 of 5 problems, I relaxed a bit too much, falling just short of finishing #3 that remained undone by the competitors. #4 decided to be a real pain in the but. After falling off the last move twice and flailing somewhere in the middle, I finally managed to get up to the top in the final seconds. #5 was another one that no one topped out, but I was just a move away…
Overall in our finals: lots of pinches, slopers, some deep juggy crimps, one small crimp, and no pockets… I’m not complaining, but this really showed the setters’ style.
Me on finals #3, trying the wrong beta. It didn’t work, hands started sweating pretty badly... Luckily, Josh Larson was there to offer some chalk before my desperate attempt and failure. Photo by Pat Bagley.
And David Wetmore has posted the video... Rated "M" for mature.
Dark Horse Series: November 6th, 2010 from David Wetmore on Vimeo.