Showing posts with label Sasha Digulian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sasha Digulian. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Future of Climbing I: Cages and Volumes

Most people are interested, excited, and even anxious to see where the sport of climbing is headed.  I am one of those people, and I’d like to share my perspective on the progression of our sport.  There are many aspects I’d like to address, so just one blog post simply won’t do.  As good a place to start as any are the “cages and volumes”!

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The wall is ready for finals (photo by Jesse Gagnon)

A bit over a week ago, Jesse, Rob D. and I drove down to the third annual Boulder Bash at the Dominion Riverrock in Richmond, VA.  As part of a sports and music festival, such an event brings in the biggest crowds and gives us a chance to show the world what climbing is all about.  Well, Brent Quesenberry with a team of professional setters took the opportunity one step further, put up a couple of oversized overhanging steel cages and pasted enough volumes on these things to make IFSC jealous!

The crowd loves this event with all the music, the lights, the crazy looking walls that resemble Ninja Warrior structures.  In turn, the event sponsors are happy and this helps our growing sport.  Does this really show off the basics of our sport to general public, though?  Don’t we sometimes climb slabs?  Don’t we scale smaller boulders with a tiny pad underneath us?  And don’t we also climb much taller walls with a rope to show off our fitness levels?  Sure we do, and we are used to those standards: bouldering and sport climbing.

Well, this event is something new and fresh to our sport.  It is more exciting for the spectators as these structures were never seen before.  It is fun for us athletes, and it is definitely still a climbing competition, with a twist...  Sitting in isolation, we had no idea whether our next round was going to be mainly to test our strength, our endurance, or maybe the ability to figure out all the toehooks and heelhooks on the wall.  In other words, one had to be good in all aspects of climbing to come out on top in the end.

To me, this event clearly demonstrates the potential for growth of climbing as a sport.  For instance, we have known for ages that we can make climbing look cool for climbers, but what about the general population?  This is still an uncharted territory for climbing that can be reached through music and outdoor festivals like the Dominion Riverrock and the Nor’easter.  It took a lot of ingenuity, dedication, time, and money to put together the Boulder Bash and should be viewed as a major accomplishment.  The athletes enjoyed competing and the spectators were thrilled to see something new, and it is this kind of symbiosis that is necessary for the progression of competitive rock climbing.

Check out this gallery by Jesse Gagnon:

I ended up in 3rd place just after Jimmy Webb and Rob D’Anastasio, while Sasha Digiulian proved dominant in the women’s category.  The 3-day event ended with speed bouldering, in which Meagan Martin took the title and in which I battled Josh Levin (or simply McLevin’) for 1st, but he took it with time to spare.

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Josh (left) and I (right) in the final showdown.  Photo by Mark Pownall.

Monday, June 27, 2011

UBC Big Show in NYC


The Eastern Mountain Sports Pro rocks Central Park from NE2C on Vimeo.

NE2C, with a “little” help from EMS and the New York City’s climbing community, has once again stepped up a notch with their 2nd event of the year EMS Pro.  It’s a bit tiring to say “this was the best comp ever” every time Jason Danforth and Pete Ward team up to organize yet another climbing event, but they did it again…

http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/06/24/rock-climbing-stars-to-clamber-in-central-park/?scp=2&sq=rock%20climbing&st=cse

The Unified Bouldering Championships (UBC) have stepped it up with the 3-day climbing comp.  Qualifiers and semifinals in the Cliffs at  Valhalla, NY were already memorable events with a great crowd and music, reminiscent of great-energy annual competitions…  And yet, you couldn’t even call the first two days an appetizer ‘cause the EMS Pro finals in Central Park was the full meal with a chocolate brownie sundae, whipped cream, sprinkles and all.

http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2011/06/25/sports/SPTS-ROCK-CLIMBING.html

Results:
Men
Women
1. Vasya Vorotnikov 1. Angie Payne
2. Ty Landman 2. Sasha DiGiulian
3. Mike Feinberg 3. Lizzy Asher
4. Rob D’Anastasio 4. Francesca Metcalf
5. Mauricio Huerta 5. Dana Riddle
6. Jon Glassberg 6. Tiffany Hensley


It’s been some sort of a zen weekend for me, and something I will never forget, thanks most to my family and friends who were there to support me through the whole thing.  I’ll try to explain what happened from my perspective…

It really started in December of last year: I got a finger injury a couple of days after the second of the Dark Horse Series 2010/11 (note to self: avoid cracks, especially when bouldering, especially indoors), after which I took a few weeks off but couldn’t stay away from competing for too long, and just had to deal with some knuckle pain for a while:

ABS Regionals, Phila Rock Gym 3rd place after Brian Kim and Rob D’Anastasio
Dark Horse Series Finale, Metrorock, Everett, MA 2nd place after Daniel Woods
Power Struggle 5, Prime Climb, Wallingford, CT 2nd place after Ty Landman (yeah, he didn’t quit climbing)
Feats of Strength 6, The Cliffs at Valhalla, NY 1st place ahead of Magnus Midtboe who climbed better than I’ve ever seen him climb
Heart of Steel 3, Boston Rock Gym, Woburn, MA 1st place ahead of Dave Wetmore and Josh Larson

After the Heart of Zteel in Boston, I started training for ropes, hoping to get back on some hard stuff down at the New. But 3 weeks later, my wrist started bothering me either because of overuse or grabbing awkward holds (yeah, apparently rope climbing can cause an injury too).  Then, time off.  After a full month without any sort of climbing, I went to the New River Rendezvous, where I got 2nd place after Greg Kerzhner.  With my wrist still bothering me, I took another week or two off.  Now, with just 3.5 weeks before the big comp I was already supposed to be training for, I got sick, lost 5 pounds, finally started feeling ok at the beginning of June.  With little hope remaining for me to climb really well in NYC, I started training just so I wouldn’t embarrass myself.  Making it to top 6, to Central Park, seemed like an unattainable goal, but would have been a dream come true.

With hard training and work, I started climbing “ok”, and appeared to start gaining momentum a week before qualifiers.  Not expecting much and knowing I’ll have to fight hard every day, I did just that.  After placing first in the qualifiers ahead of Matt Bosley by just one attempt, I got hope of making it to finals.  After another fight in the semis, I made it to finals, still in 1st, again by attempts.  Probably, every single thought came through my head since then…  and then came the finals.

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The crowd.  Photo by Jesse Gagnon.

Nervous in front of thousands of people, after discussing how one looks like a punter if he doesn’t at least get close to the top of the problem, with tons of pressure from all of the guys cheered for before me, it was hard to keep my heart beat down to say the least.  Being sure of my beta on #1, I was just hoping the holds were good enough.  Try 1: fail, but close to the top, try 2: same, but now I’m more tired, thinking that was probably it.  The only reason I got back on the wall is because Jason Danforth decided that the crowd wanted to see me try it again.  I did not hear anything between me starting my third go and grabbing the finishing jug, but I remember trying to out-scream the crowd while I was holding on to it, which was well-depicted in the New York Times photo-report.

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Me on problem #1.  Photo by Jesse Gagnon.

On #2, I felt extreme pressure from the guys right before me.  I now had to defend my #1 spot, and this was the time.  Once again, try 1: fail, poor foot placement, too fast, try 2: same story…  Came down, chalked up, the judge says “5 seconds” as I’m trying to get my heart beat down.  I probably had 1 second remaining when I started the climb on my final go, and honestly don’t know how I clambered up that thing because I was so disoriented trying to stem with whatever body parts…  Once again, though, I felt like screaming as loud as I could.

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Struggling on #2.  Photo by Jesse Gagnon.

After #2, I was nowhere near relief as Rob D, Ty, and Mike Feinberg clearly decided to put all the pressure they could on me by getting that last problem.  Still a bit pumped from the 2nd problem, and intimidated by everything going on around me, I started #3.  Each and every move fit my style perfectly and I was able to get up there before I knew the problem was over.  Seeing the finishing jug in my hand, I was in shock for about 2 seconds, thinking to myself this did not just happen, and only then started screaming…

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Jason Danforth interviewing Angie and I.  Photo by Jesse Gagnon.